A couple of months ago, I told you about Armondo’s new lunch menu and their new chef, Tom Small — and his philosophy for fresh, simple ingredients that change seasonally. Armondo’s has just changed to its winter menu — and all in the name of research for you, dear readers, I had to go back to sample the new dinner menu and learn a little bit more about Chef Small and his culinary background.

First, Chef Small. His diverse culinary background includes education, development and journalism, in addition to management in the kitchen. He has taught cooking classes — and is bringing that to Armondo’s. When he was with San Antonio Winery, he presented weekly themed wine dinners, also coming soon to Armondo’s. His passion for local seasonal products made him a regular at the Renton Farmer’s Market. And, while the market is closed for the season, he continues to work with two of the market’s regular farmers. In fact, they will partner with Westover Farms next spring to grow exactly what the restaurant needs. In addition, Armondo’s is also partnering with Tahoma High School to grow produce and help students learn about moving produce from ground to table.

And if Chef Small wasn’t already cool enough and a superior chef, owner Armondo Pavone shared with me that he’s also classically trained in piano and singing. Wow. During my visit to the downtown restaurant, I got the chance to sample MUCH of the new dinner menu. (I know, it’s a tough job; but you know someone has to do it for you!) We started with a sampling of the chicken wings — on the antipasti menu. (Its preparation is the same as the Draper Valley Chicken, on the “secondi” entrée menu). It was absolutely delicious and cooked to perfection in balsamic honey, aioli verde. Then, we shared the roasted beet salad, which was, bar none, the best salad that I have ever eaten in my life. It was so simple — yet unique. The perfectly roasted beets were married with salemville blue cheese, pistachios (who would ever think pistachios!) and red grapes and arugula. It was simply dressed with their basic red wine vinegarette. I could have just stopped there — but the research, you know.

Then, we tried two pasta dishes from the “primi menu”: the penne, which was prepared with cod, broccolini, red chile (it is spicy!), pine nuts and capers (my husband was WILD for this dish); the second we tried was maccherioni – perfect for a vegetarian. It was made with roasted eggplant, garlic and house-made smoked ricotta. Before we moved on to the MAIN courses (!), we had an interlude of cranberry sorbetto! Light and perfect.

Just about the time we were served the last two courses, our friend Denny, wandered in — which was a good thing, because we were in need for some serious help around this time. So we handed him a fork. The last two courses we tasted were the butternut squash lasagna and the stracotto. The lasagna had a perfect béchamel sauce and was topped with pumpkin seed. It was rich and creamy and outstanding (you can order sheets of this during the holidays!). The stracotto, Chef Small called a simple “Italian pot roast” — not so simple in my mind — the meat was perfect and tender and served in a rich ragu with roasted carrots and turnips. It was dotted on the top with that delicious blue cheese we had earlier on our salad. It would be perfect served family style.

I should have stopped there, but I know that many of you like dessert, so all in the name of good reporting, Denny and my husband and I shared a cannoli filled with that house-made ricotta. It was the perfect end to a tasting meal. You may elect to share a spumoni, or a biscotti, or a cheese course and a dessert beverage.

There’s a quote on the dessert menu: “I want to have a good body, but not as much as I want dessert.” Ah, now, there’s a philosophy I can live by!

Susan Bressler is an active member of a number of Renton organizations, including Piazza Renton. E-mail her at scbressler@comcast.net.